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Issue 6, December 2002
Exploring the Botox Fad
Jean Lee
Integrative Biology, University of California-Berkeley
lee@jyi.org
Dodie
Kazanjin, like millions of Americans, was unhappy with her "frown
lines … and bags under the eyes." Her solution? Botox. She described
her experience, what felt like being "stung by a hundred killer
bees," in an August Vogue
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The prospect of receiving a shot of neurotoxin
in the face or neck isn't exactly appealing, but doctors have
been using Botox and other similar injections for nearly 10
years to treat skin and gland problems.
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magazine article.
She received five injections of the drug into her forehead, and
endured the stinging pain for 10 minutes before it began to subside.
Within half an hour, though, the Botox began to take effect, and
she was ultimately pleased with the treatment. She says she feels
as though she's "taken the first step, gotten [her] feet wet," and
found that Botox isn't so bad after all.
Not unlike
plastic surgery, the highly popular Botulinum Toxin Type A cosmetic
treatment, "Botox Cosmetic," remains quite popular despite a significant
amount of negative public reaction. Reactions to the newly sensationalized
drug range from avid usage to downright disgust. The prospect of
receiving a shot of neurotoxin in the face or neck isn't exactly
appealing, but doctors have been using Botox and other similar injections
for nearly 10 years to treat skin and gland problems.
Botox has been
known to be an effective treatment for crossed eyes (strabismus),
uncontrollable blinking (blepharospasm), and neurological disorders
such as cervical dystonia (spasms of the neck and shoulder area),
and has been Food and Drug Administration (FDA)-approved for such
use since 1989.
The lunch hour procedure
A press release from the FDA says Botox should
be used only for temporarily improving "the appearance of moderate
to severe frown lines between the eyebrows."
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The procedure is
swift; it is no wonder enthusiastic customers, mostly well-to-do,
middle-aged, urban men and women, are calling Botox the "lunch hour
procedure." The cosmetic effect of Botox is to induce and to maintain
a smooth, wrinkle-free forehead or temple and to effectively erase
frown lines.
The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) says
nearly 1.6 million Botox treatments took place in the year 2001,
a 46% increase since 2000 and a whopping 2,356% increase since 1997.
The sudden and overwhelming interest in the procedure is most likely
due to its FDA approval, which came in April 2002.
Before then, Botox
was used only for very specific medical treatments, and not for
widespread cosmetic purposes. A press release from the FDA says
Botox should be used only for temporarily improving "the appearance
of moderate to severe frown lines between the eyebrows." In the
definitive study (a placebo-controlled, randomized study), researchers
found that individuals injected with Botox had their frown lines
vastly improve or disappear within a month.
A shot of neurotoxin to the face
It's not every day the FDA recognizes an alternative use for a poison.
Botox injections come directly from a deadly bacterial toxin, but
when used properly, there are surprisingly beneficial results. So
how does Botox Cosmetic work? Botox is a purified form of Botulinum
Toxin Type A, a protein complex produced by Clostridium botulinum,
a bacterium well-known for causing severe food poisoning and even
death. The toxin causes the muscles in the face, and thus, frown
lines, to "relax" by blocking acetylcholine receptors and halting
the pathway leading to contraction of those muscles.
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One vial of Botox in a physician's cabinet
has an extremely lethal potential - but only if ingested.
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Toxicity data shows
the dose of botulinum toxin at which 50% of a test population will
die (the LD50 value) to be 0.00001 mg per kilogram of body weight.
In other words, one vial of Botox in a physician's cabinet has an
extremely lethal potential - but only if ingested. Both Botulinum
Toxin Type A and Botulinum Toxin Type B (Myobloc, a Botox-like injection),
while extremely toxic, are nevertheless currently approved for use
as intramuscular injections.
A typical administration of Botox Cosmetic is performed in a physician's
office. The patient needs to sit or stand upright for the duration
of the treatment as well as the next four or five hours. This helps
the treated facial muscles to "settle in" and fall into the natural
positions they would hold during a normal day.
A fraction of a
teaspoon of Botox is injected into the face while the patient flexes
his or her facial muscles. Dramatic disappearance of frown lines
occurs any time from a few hours to a next couple of days after
the treatment. Results last for about four months, so in order to
keep up their appearances, patients must be re-treated every four
to six months. Pre-injection anesthetics or numbing creams, and
small post-treatment injections of collagen may be used, as every
patient responds differently to the drug and adjustments are made
accordingly to obtain the best possible results.
Analyzing
the demand for Botox
A multi-million dollar
market is expected from the sudden demand for Botox injections. One
enthusiastic San Francisco-based dermatologist, Seth Matarasso, calls
Botox "the aspirin of the decade." It is also creating so-called "celebrity
dermatologists." "Botox King" Dr. Frederic Brandt, famed for his Florida
and New York Botox practices, reportedly administers the drug more
than any other physician.
The act of injecting the drug poses a danger;
an unsuccessful application might cause the patient to have
droopy eyelids for a week or longer.
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Of course, one
must consider both the pros and cons of Botox. Based upon its easy
and quick use, almost immediate results, minimal invasiveness (compared
to cosmetic surgery), and relatively cheap cost (several hundred
dollars) Botox has in fact been hailed by the cosmetic industry
as a nearly ideal procedure. But Botox also weakens the facial muscles.
Adverse effects from the injections include flu-like symptoms, nausea,
respiratory problems, and facial pain (stinging, burning, or allergic
reactions).
The act of injecting
the drug poses a danger; an unsuccessful application might cause
the patient to have droopy eyelids for a week or longer. There is
also the issue of possible complications with medications the patient
is taking. And there are not yet any indications that Botox does
not affect a pregnant woman's fetus. Yet another concern is that
Botox may not be administered properly; the ASAPs asserts that Botox
treatments have been injected by "unqualified people … dispensing
Botox in salons, gyms," and other places that may not be safe. To
safeguard against this, the FDA insists that Botox treatments be
received in a sterile clinical setting from a certified physician,
who is, if possible, an expert on facial cosmetics.
Competition for Botox
Competition for
Botox also exists in the cosmetic industry. The second botulinum
toxin to be approved, Myobloc, lasts for a shorter amount of time
than Botox. Restylane and Perlane, hyaluronic acid derivatives that
serve as a sort of collagen supplement, also belong to the category
of cosmetic treatments used to smooth human skin.
Collagen, the most
abundant protein in the body, is an elastic polymer that makes skin
firm and durable; as we age, collagen is lost from the dermal, or
deeper, layer, rendering our skin more wrinkly and stiff. The numerous
"anti-aging" and "anti-wrinkle" creams on the cosmetic market do
improve the skin temporarily (through hydration, vitamin-enrichment,
and providing other nutrients), but they may only treat the outermost
layer of skin, the epidermis - collagen glands lie in the dermis,
and so are unaffected by these creams. Retinoic acid (vitamin A)
is an excellent non-injection treatment for the skin, and is often
used in medical treatments as well as in over-the-counter creams
and lotions. The next cosmetic "miracle" could be just a few years
away, bringing us more alternatives, perhaps longer lasting and
better than Botox Cosmetic. Or we could just choose to age naturally.
Suggested Reading
Amdur,
Mary O., Doull, John., Klaassen, Curtis D., editors. Casarett and
Doull's Toxicology: The Basic Science of Poisons. Fourth edition.
Pergamon Press, Inc. New York, U.S.A. 1991. Lewis, Carol. Botox
cosmetic: a look at looking good. U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
FDA Consumer magazine. July-August 2002. http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/2002/402_botox.html
The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). Botulinum
toxin (BOTOX®, MYOBLOC®) injection is top cosmetic treatment: more
than 1.6 million procedures: new 2001 statistics from the American
Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. 2002. http://surgery.org/news_releases/feb2502btx.html
FDA APPROVES BOTOX TO TREAT FROWN LINES. April 15, 2002. http://www.fda.gov/bbs/topics/ANSWERS/2002/ANS01147.html
Product Approval Information. December 21, 2000. http://www.fda.gov/cber/approvltr/botaller122100L.htm
Preboth, Monica. Frown lines reduced with botulinum toxin injection.
American Family Physician. June 1, 2002 v65 i11 p2389.
Shea, Christine. Beyond botox. Vogue Magazine. V. 192. no. 2. August
2002. 258-260.
Vernarec, Emil. Botox approved for use on frown lines. RN, July
2002 v65 i7 p94(1).
Related
web sites
Journal of Young
Investigators. 2002. Volume Six.
Copyright © 2002 by Jean Lee and JYI. All rights reserved.
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